Bulleit has shot straight from the barrel and into the hearts of rye lovers with their new release, Bulleit 95. The “95” stands for the percentage of rye in the spirit, which is extraordinarily high, and leads to a stunning complexity of flavors and aromas.
Diageo owns the Bulleit name and apparently also loves the name of “Lawrenceburg,” as the Bulleit bourbon is distilled in Lawrenceburg, KY and the new rye in Lawrenceburg, IN (check out Chuck Cowdery’s piece on this). The location names are coincidence, but the adherence to pulling interesting flavors from rye isn’t; it’s a Bulleit trademark. I’ve always loved the bourbon, though many people I know find it too intense or blunt for their palates. I think it’s just a darn good American whiskey.
Bulleit’s rye is really unexpected with its nuances. I expected granary aromas on the nose, and rye and yeast on the palate. However, the subtle aromas of lilac, lavender, rose petals and honey came as a complete surprise on my initial nosing. The aforementioned granary allusion brings depth to those sweet aromas and there is an underlying muskiness which gives the nose some heft.
The palate has a very nice, medium feel punctuated by milk chocolate, vanilla (both imparted by the new oak used to age the rye) with an unexpected wallop of cayenne pepper, as well as the rye and yeast I mentioned before.
The finish picks up a lot of notes from the newly charred casks. Sweet notes ride pounding waves of bbq smoke, charcoal and ash that coat the throat on the way to warming the cockles and the rest of one’s body.
Bulleit rye is best enjoyed neat to take full advantage of its complexities. However, I have experimented with it in cocktails. For me, it works best in a Perfect Manhattan. The sweet vermouth of a regular Manhattan seems to attach itself to the floral notes of the spirit and chases away the heavier notes of the rye. Adding the dry vermouth needed for a Perfect Manhattan allows the spirit’s bolder smoke and wood flavors to come through and complement the entire cocktail.
Bulleit Rye is retailing here in Los Angeles and around the U.S. for between $22–$28 a bottle at a number of outlets. Pick up a bottle when you have the chance. You’ll be happy you did.