A year ago, in my life as a media strategist, I sometimes would have so much going on that I’d have up to ten meetings a day scheduled. I’d be a slave to my schedule, running from location to location, turning the previous meeting’s line of thinking off and trying to start up the right mental information for the next meeting. Add to it the clogged Los Angeles freeway traffic that made getting anywhere a nearly impossible task…well, there was stress.
The past few months here on Islay has been stress free thanks to no traffic problems and no meetings… except for one a couple of weeks ago. I am so out of touch with having to be at a certain place at a certain time, that when it neared the time for me to catch a bus to Lagavulin, I was still sitting in my cottage doing some writing. Thankfully, I noticed the clock and sprinted to the bus stop in time to catch the bus for the 45 minute ride. Unfortunately, my lapse in timeliness meant I went without eating lunch, which is never good for getting through the afternoon, let alone touring a distillery and tasting whisky.
The spirit loved the world over all passes through here.
Lagavulin means, “hollow by the mill” and fortunately for me, before I reached the mill house the growl in my hollow stomach was filled with some oatcakes and cheese courtesy of Kirsten and Ruth, two of the distillery’s tour guides. I shouldn’t have been surprised by their generosity. As I found out later from Distillery Manager Peter Campbell, lending a hand to those in need is something Lagavulin does proudly and does well. More on that later.
There are hundreds of whiskies from around the world, but only a handful grab your attention by the mere mention of their name. Lagavulin is one of those whiskies. Whisky lovers the world over know about Lagavulin’s meaty peatiness that reaches into the cockles and envelopes them with a smile. Iodine and saltiness take the drinker immediately to the wilds of Islay and layers of fruitiness and spice make them want to stay.
The remains of the medieval Dunyvaig Castle jut into the sea next to Lagavulin, reminding visitors this site has been important for more than just whisky for centuries. The hollow is so well protected that between the downfall of the castle and the legitimate launching of Lagavulin, as many as ten illicit stills utilized the site. Now, there is just Lagavulin, which has legally stood on these shores since 1816.
The giant stills at Lagavulin produce 1.3 millions liters of whisky each year.
The distillery goes through some 120te’s of malted barley a week in its 24/7 operation that yields 2.4 million liters of whisky each year. Aside from approximately 10 percent which is set aside for blending, Lagavulin’s main bottling purpose is single malts. The 54-hour fermentation creates a balanced sweet and slightly spicy wash the peeks through the robust peatiness brought on through the earlier malting. This basic character is found throughout Lagavulin’s range of bottlings, but is perhaps most prevalent in the 12-year-old cask strength.
The 16-year-old is the standard by which most of the world knows Lagavulin. According to Campbell, who took over as distillery manager in November, his goal is to make sure that each bottle maintains the same consistency consumers know and love.
“To me, this is my dream job. Lagavulin is my favorite whisky and in my opinion, one of the best whiskies in Diageo,” Campbell said. “I’m proud to produce one of the best whiskies on Islay.”
Campbell came over to Lagavulin from running the Port Ellen Maltings just up the road from the distillery. The 35ppm peat level of the optic barley is infused at the maltings, and serves as the genealogical root to what ends up in the bottle years down the road. Appropriately, Campbell’s own family background is also rooted on Islay and since coming to the island in 2000, he’s embraced the community his forbearers called home.
While Lagavulin the drink gives Islay’s spirit to the entire world, Lagavulin the distillery and its staff are well-known for having a giving spirit that benefits Islay. They hold a number of fundraising events throughout the year where much of the proceeds go to local organizations. Their bravest event is the annual Lagavulin Leap which lets loads of locals launch themselves off the distillery pier in the middle of winter in return for financial pledges. Those who survive (and they all do) are treated to a dram or five to get the blood flowing again after being in the frigid winter sea. Both Peter and Kirsten have participated in the event, though they are coy about whether either of them will ever do it again. I don’t blame them. That water is COLD.
Lagavulin sits along a stretch of road that puts in smack in the middle of Ardbeg and Laphroaig. The distillery doesn’t have Ardbeg’s café, and it doesn’t have Laphroaig’s floor maltings, but it’s still well-worth an extended stop if you have the chance. I won’t guarantee the staff will feed you if you’ve forgotten to eat lunch, but they’ll certainly provide you with an enthusiastic tour of the historic grounds and some fantastic drams. You definitely won’t leave feeling hollow.
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